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TWO | juxtaposition

Adriel Daniel | Tumblr

One picture says more than thousand words. Two pictures double the amount of cliché in that proverb. The compositions of Adriel Daniel evoke a whole different range of cliché words; 'amazing' 'fuck' and 'huh?'. The juxtaposition of one pattern in two a-natural settings centre the attention on the similarities, the strong analogy between the two. Because one is never a whole.

“There are only patterns, patterns on top of patterns, patterns that affect other patterns. Patterns hidden by patterns. Patterns within patterns. If you watch close, history does nothing but repeat itself. What we call chaos is just patterns we haven’t recognized. What we call random is just patterns we can’t decipher. what we can’t understand we call nonsense. What we can’t read we call gibberish. There is no free will. There are no variables.”
Chuck Palahniuk, Survivor

TREND | trend?

As the discussion on street style as circus has died down, the debate on trends has also come to an end. For the half-yearly ELLE style bible for this season, Fashion Director Esther Coppoolse wrote an interesting introduction on trends. Let me share a quote.

'Trends are not what they used to be. Once, it was so simple: a trend was born, reached its highest level, faded and disappeared. Today, we can categorize style as following: HITS (short-craved items), TRENDS (styles that last for one season), TENDENCIES (styles that last multiple seasons, on the catwalks as well as on the streets), CLASSICS (items or styles that get reinvented), SURPRISES (your personal distinctive features). Together, they form 'The Wheel of Style'. Give it a spin for a unique and personal interpretation of your style.'

I remember the age of thirteen, when I exactly knew which artists were on top of the weekly changing music lists. I grew up, lost my passion for soaking up new melodies and focused on the science of fashion. But I still kept my madness for remembering lists and odd facts. It-bags, low-budget alternatives, Japanese webshops: name it. I was in stage where I recognized Zara clothing on television (please, everybody does that. no?), filled Tumblr-pages with 'inspiration of coolness' and added semi-interesting quotes to my MSN-account. But MSN is no longer here. And neither is the old me. Holding onto 'being on trend' does not say anything about style.

AMFI tries to teach me to carefully select and curate items on value instead of added value. If I look around in class, I just see black. Not one of the forecasted 'trends'. I am struggling with finding clothing articles that suit me, and fit my identity. Because it makes me wondering what this identity might be. At the same time, clothes are just stupid pieces of cloth. I think the fashion industry has won another soul...

INSPIRATION | #03402

Specks of sunlight break the glass barrier that divide here from there. Fingertips follow the deep grieves of the creaking wooden floor.
Past tense transforms into sentences that echo in space.
The walls exhale a collective memory of thoughts
and whispers and glowing in the dark.
Amsterdam dresses down, until there is nothing more
than skin and skin and skin.

I've been soaking up inspiration from our new home on one of the Amsterdam canals. My inspiration folder explodes from monochrome interiors, pictures of cactuses and wall decoration like this collage. Even though it's far from finished, a piece of me already feels home there. There is so much to be discovered, I feel like an adventurer in my own street. I guess I could say 'Welcome home' now.

ph/amerrymishap

GOING OUT | in berlin

You might have noticed the lack of posts last week. Sorry. I was in rehab for my pixel addiction and RSI arm in Berlin. It's such a shame I've never been there before, since it is the closest (and probably coolest) neighbor we have! Together with other students of fashion school, we went hunting for fresh concept stores. Hold your breath as I drop them.

Shops
titus zooprene karl-liebknecht-strasse 9
Do me a favor and get me one of those skateable concrete bowls! Titus is a skatestore with a clean concept and simplistic approach. Brilliant caps and a nice selection of decks.

apartment am alexanderplatz memhardstrasse 8 
Step into the ground floor and you'll feel like you've just walked in a museum. White walls, white floors, only one object inside. Take the stairs to minus one and discover the incredible conceptual planet of apartment!

fein und ripp kastanienallee 91-92
Not everybody's piece of cake, but worth mentioning anyway. Fein und Ripp sells original 1920's produced men's wear. The 'new old stock' is even used as inspiration by the head designer of G-Star. Certainly talk to the guy behind the desk, he can tell you everything about the extraordinary shop.

Food
glory whole oderberger strasse 13
I read the name out loud. Once again. Laughed. And had to get in! Don't let the name fool you, Glory Whole is actually a really nice biological and organic small café with oven-fresh carrot cake.

clärchens ballhaus auguststrasse 24
If you're in for some charming Italian music and a bit of dancing, this place is brilliant. The venue is being used as both restaurant and dancing hall, with classes every evening. Enjoy the carrotsoup or the classic wiener schnitzel. It's the biggest you've ever seen!

Sleeping
hüttenpalast hobrechtstrasse 66
Unfortunately, the hotel was arranged by school. Thank god for my six nice roomies, otherwise I would have jumped straight out of the window. My own choice would be the lovely Hüttenpalast, a giant inside campsite with several caravans functioning as beds.

Non-sleeping
Berlin's club scene changes every other night. Most clubs are located in squatted, former East-Berlin buildings were the rent is low and the joy high. We enjoyed Tresor (Köpenicker Strasse 70), an old department store turned into technoclub, though it was quite touristic and not that authentic. If you're lucky, you might get in Berghein (Am Wriezener Bahnhof 1), the most desirable club in the world. Other nice clubs are Magdalena (Located on the corner of Schillingbrücke/Stralauer Platz), Chalet (Schlesischen Tor 3) and the area of Cassiopeia.

photos/freunde von freunden

TREND | the good, the bad and the ugly

ph/marques almeida s/s 2012

Someone chokes in a bottle of exclusive Swiss mountainwater, spilling a few drops on the wooden floor where Marques Almeida just opened his S/S 2012 show. Thick white rubber soles with straps accompany the anarchist look of destroyed and bleached denim. One year later, Céline's 'horror slippers' are the center of attention. The fur-covered showstoppers look like some serious trailertrash treasure. Fashion determined by aesthetics or beauty? I don't think so.

Ideals of beauty challenge designers to cross them, to shift from a focus of pleasing customers and investors into experimenting with pure unattractiveness. And we adjust. Sure, nobody's actually liking the fact that we walk on a bed of poodle-fur in the midst of summer, but who said fashion is practical anyway? The whole orthopedic footwear-trend started somewhere with the Birkenstock, a slipper with the unsexy German word 'gründlichkeit' attached to it. The whole 40+ population followed the footsteps of Gisele Bündchen, hoping to look just as damn hot in those leather Jesus-sandals. Mission failed, but fashion picked it up from here.

One of the horrible characteristics of the fashion industry is though that practicality dangles somewhere between the 124th and 286th place when it comes to importance. Footwear in particular transforms into a killing machine from the Medievals, using the sharpest point and highest stiletto heel. The comfortability and healthiness attached to the Birkenstock fades away with the manly plastic sandals which are sweaty, coarse and have a pure aesthetic function. And I said no. NO. I wouldn't want to be found dead in these. But why do I imagine a thousand times cooler version of myself wearing a pair of rubber clogs?

I blame the nineties nostalgia, the irresistible clean approach and flawless combination with denim. I don't know, I have no logic answers to the big question marks in your heads. But isn't falling in love completely irrational?

MTWTFSS | Monki | Marques Almeida via OC | &Other Stories

MONOCHROME | pull off a marni

ph/style.com

While looking for some style inspiration for the warmer spring days (which is still a rarely seen phenomena in Holland), I encountered the Marni Spring/Summer 2013 army. Models wrapped in monochrome two-pieces made of the finest silk and softest leather, walking fiercely in oversized v-neck silhouettes. Perfect example for anyone with scissors and a sewing machine.

OUTFIT | holographic green

Some of my best-wishies, best-wanties. Even though I should be on the hunt for a new rucksack, this proofs I'm being distracted by less functional but aesthetically approved want-to-haves.

White textured dress | Topshop €65
Foretell earrings | Cheap Monday €13
Mint leather paper bag | Jil Sander
Holographic purse | Monki €8
Blockheeled sandals | Cheap Monday €75

ANTI-TREND | different grunge

ph / originals from Style.com

I have to share my bitterness about magazines and blogs using the lyrics of Nirvana in every single editorial or trendreport on grunge. How I disgust reading the first line of 'Come as you are' or the well-known 'Smells like teenspirit', even as semi-, semi-, semi-journalist that isn't in the position to criticize other's writing. So, Dries van Noten nailed it with another brilliant comeback of Kurt Cobain's gathered mess. He is the spirit behind the comeback of the white sunglasses. So far nothing new.

It is just that grunge is so much more than the combination of checked flannel shirts, flowery dresses and characteristic white glasses. It was the ultimate fuck you-fashion, the unappreciated little brother of anti-fashion. And it is the nonchalance of gathering any piece of clothing you would find in your near surrounding. Getting dressed, without dressing up. It was a state of bewildering and of ultimate loneliness.

The checked shirts nonchalantly knotted around the hips could be the most noticable grunge-statement. These Céline Fall 2013 dresses enlarge this typically knotting but form the contradictory feeling of loneliness: warmth and embracement. Even though I understand the hyping of Dries' use of translucent flowerprints and the 'grunge 2.0' as some Dutch magazine delivered the cheesy message, it would be so much more interesting if uncommon, far-fetched links were made. Not Dries is the teller of grunge tales, but the classy Célne. Let's stop with literal connections and copies from copies from subcultures, and focus on indifference. Please find yourself different lyrics on grunge.

FILM | age of aquarius


Dazed & Confused presents | Age of Aquarius by Pierre Debusschere

Mesmerizing magic in a split-second. It grabs you by your throat, it gets stuck on your retina. You see flashes every time you close your eyes. So close them.

DESIGN | freunde von freunden



photo's / freunde von freunden

Sell your soul to Berlin, because it has all you've ever wanted. Is houses an art scene as big as two African countries, it sells cheap food, from Bratwürst to beer, and it  has been built up out of concrete. ‘The city is the best context in which to draw together diverse groups and perhaps the best cultural achievement that we can boast of. There is no Tabula Rasa and no White Cube. It is always to be found in different conditions and that is of great interest to me.’ Not everyone would agree on the aesthetics of concrete, but when I saw the living of architect Arno Brandlhuber, I sighed. It is raw, spacious and graphic. It is pure perfection, but so massively different from what's in the magazines today.

I wrote about the amazing concept of Freunde von Freunden before, but once in a while, it has to get more attention. The combination of deep, personal interviews and the unique places across most wanted cities as London and Berlin keeps me coming back for more. Hunting for creative people in their self-proclaimed habitat. Craving for the refreshing view on interior design. Please go.






FASHION WEEK | personal highlights

Cushnie Et Ochs | 3.1 Phillip Lim | Hwan Sung for Central Saint Martins 

A strong one-piece, emphasized by the diagonal cropped sleeves from the hand of Cushnie et Ochs. The sisters set their focus on material instead of shape and that resulted in a clean line of firm, rubberized and dense fabrics. 3.1 Phillip Lim explored the world of punk through a mix-up of leathers and the classic pinstripe suit. That far connotation with Kurt's Nirvana increased when seeing the glasses. They are nor white nor oval, but clearly inspired by the raw 'fuck you-mentality' mixed with a hint of joy and experimentation. Last in row is the graduation project of Hwan Sung, presented by the prestigious Central Saint Martins. He turns his models in modern angels by putting a ballet tutu on top of the all-white outfits. Interesting vision on layering.


All Hernandez Cornet

Yes to the perception of bare skin, yes to the crumpled green plastics, yes to the hints of raw denim. Hernandez Cornet's show was in many ways innovative. It was not about that vertical stripe that replaced a row of buttons, or the 'new suit' that was presented. For me, it was the moment of clarity that fashion is not always about putting it all in one design, just as that old saying 'less is more' is still relevant today.

Lacoste | Proenza Schouler

Lacoste surprised me in very many ways. It shook off their classic polo's, cheesy crocodile and dusty image. Sports re-innovated, taking risk. Highlights were the complete mint-green suit, including gloves in the same colour, and the semi-transparent layer on top of the digital printed dress. On the other end of the pastels, in between loads of black and white, there was the show of Proenza Schouler. Slightly inspired by the path of Balenciaga, these two outfits stood out. The wonderful use of lavender ostrich leather in combination with the turtlenecks and diagonal lines, Schouler made it picture perfect again.

OH YES | MMM Spring 2013

ph / courtesy of Style.com

Oh yes. The not-quite pierced noses of the models were stunning, futuristic and in the thought of Margiela himself. But the outstanding simplicity of the completely stripped gown was my personal highlight. Perfect for after one of those nights filled with nachos, ice cold beers and that cannot-resist cheesecake. No-one will doubt your eating habits if you hide them under one of these XXL trash-chic T-shirts. Thank you Martin Margiela for solving one of our first-world problems again.

INTERIOR INSPIRATION | White desk






ph / Hitta Hem

In the run-up to a new home and the consequences that a certain coloured wall can make, I try to find as much interior inspiration as possible to be well prepared. It is really hard to decide upon paint and accessories when we don't even have a space yet! I will become twenty in a few days, and I plan to receive another load of vacuum cleaners, porcelain and lampshades. But who knows, this desk could be in there too... I love the showcase-function of this workspace and the serene, white surrounding. Unfortunately, this IKEA edition isn't available in white anymore. But a complete black desk could be interesting too... Choices, choices.

 How would your ideal working area look like?

OUTFIT | 11012012

ph / boyfriend

So, thanks to my education for these photo's! First things first: hereby I claim my non-existing modeling talent. I had a really hard time to take a pose and smile in front of staring people mowing their yards. An assignment for school forced me to take a closer look at my outfit. So here it is.

My coat has become my best buddy during crispy cold winter days. The multiple layers make me turn into walking origami-art. I combined the soft wool with an oversized favourite of mine and spiced it up with neoprene, a coated jeans and sneakers.

grey coat: COS
white leather waiscoat: H&M against aids men's collection
white oversized jacket: Zara
neoprene t-shirt: H&M Trend
burgundy beanie: H&M
sneakers: New Balance

CITYTRIP | a small guide to antwerp

Eating, dining, wining, I won't dare to call myself an expert on Antwerp, but I did have a nice stroll along the Schelde this weekend.

Food
Our not-so-good experience with a sushiplace made us stay-in the other night and enjoy some tapas from the nearby supermarket. I asked around for some nice restaurants and the following names came up multiple times... 't Lastig Portret (Blindestraat 1) houses art students and serves fresh, simple food for fine prices. Café Berlin (Kleine Markt 1) is perfectly located in the Southern Area, across the psychedelic and youthful Kavka (Oudaan 14) venue and a two-minutes walk from the Fashion Museum.

Coffee
I can strongly recommend Norma (Minderbroersrui 30) for your daily sip of coffee. Barista Jens burns his own coffee while surrounded by mohawks, grannies and housewifes. Broer Bretel (Nassaustraat 7) is a homebase in the far North area, best accessible by (rented) bike (try the Central Station). Enjoy an espresso and take a stroll along the docks to spot some of the old sailor tattoos.

Shopping
The Meir is the easiest way to fulfill your needs. All the big chainstores are located around this broad path, which leads you into the old city centre. Much more interesting are the stores in the Nationalestraat with CLOSED, Renaissance, Labels inc. and (my personal favourite) AllSaints. Copyright (Nationalestraat 28a) is full of books and magazines of the local fashion institute, great for wandering. The small China Town (Van Wesenbekestraat) is brilliant for horrible statues of cats and the weirdest snacks in town. And also don't miss out on the recordstores which are all centered around the Lange Koepoortstraat.

Sleeping
We stayed over in designhotel Sir Plantin (Plantin en Moretuslei 136-140) were the breakfast is expensive (€15 per person) but the beds incredible. It is a nice experience to wake up under the argus-eyed portrait of a historical Belgian painter. The hotel is just a five-minute walk away from the Central Station, though, there are probably hotels that are closer to the city centre and have a nicer staff.

Non-sleeping
Antwerp has so many opportunities to enjoy your night! We booked tickets for a New Years Eve in Café d'Anvers (Verversrui 15), not knowing it was in the heart of the prostitute district... The old church with its industrial outside and minimal music does guarantee some sore feet after a night of dancing. SCHELD'APEN (d'Herbouvillekaai 36) is a mixture of crazy art and brilliant musicians, but quite off centre and best when its summer. De Muze (Melkmarkt 10) has hippie hair and free jazz music every day. You'll find more live music in Crossroads (Paardenmarkt 115) and Kid's Rhythm 'n' Blues Kaffee (Grote Markt 50).

Now it's time for the real experts to give me some golden tips for my next visit. What do you enjoy most in Antwerp?

ph / Martha Stewart, afterdrk, Café d'Anvers

2013 | to new adventures

ph / original Carol Christian Poel

Here is to new adventures. Bigger dreams. Creating desire. Appreciating the smallest smiles. Learn. Wish. Enjoy.

I've stopped making New Year's resolutions, simply because they never will be life-changing. I believe in bigger ideas that become ideals. Not to lose that twelve pounds, but to aim for a healthy vision on food. Not to graduate, but to absorb as much knowledge and inspiration as possible.

2013 will hopefully be a year full of self-knowledge and development in every field and every discipline and a sharper eye for aesthetics. I'm up for a new adventure. How about you?
 

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