TREND | the good, the bad and the ugly

ph/marques almeida s/s 2012

Someone chokes in a bottle of exclusive Swiss mountainwater, spilling a few drops on the wooden floor where Marques Almeida just opened his S/S 2012 show. Thick white rubber soles with straps accompany the anarchist look of destroyed and bleached denim. One year later, Céline's 'horror slippers' are the center of attention. The fur-covered showstoppers look like some serious trailertrash treasure. Fashion determined by aesthetics or beauty? I don't think so.

Ideals of beauty challenge designers to cross them, to shift from a focus of pleasing customers and investors into experimenting with pure unattractiveness. And we adjust. Sure, nobody's actually liking the fact that we walk on a bed of poodle-fur in the midst of summer, but who said fashion is practical anyway? The whole orthopedic footwear-trend started somewhere with the Birkenstock, a slipper with the unsexy German word 'gründlichkeit' attached to it. The whole 40+ population followed the footsteps of Gisele Bündchen, hoping to look just as damn hot in those leather Jesus-sandals. Mission failed, but fashion picked it up from here.

One of the horrible characteristics of the fashion industry is though that practicality dangles somewhere between the 124th and 286th place when it comes to importance. Footwear in particular transforms into a killing machine from the Medievals, using the sharpest point and highest stiletto heel. The comfortability and healthiness attached to the Birkenstock fades away with the manly plastic sandals which are sweaty, coarse and have a pure aesthetic function. And I said no. NO. I wouldn't want to be found dead in these. But why do I imagine a thousand times cooler version of myself wearing a pair of rubber clogs?

I blame the nineties nostalgia, the irresistible clean approach and flawless combination with denim. I don't know, I have no logic answers to the big question marks in your heads. But isn't falling in love completely irrational?

MTWTFSS | Monki | Marques Almeida via OC | &Other Stories

MONOCHROME | pull off a marni

ph/style.com

While looking for some style inspiration for the warmer spring days (which is still a rarely seen phenomena in Holland), I encountered the Marni Spring/Summer 2013 army. Models wrapped in monochrome two-pieces made of the finest silk and softest leather, walking fiercely in oversized v-neck silhouettes. Perfect example for anyone with scissors and a sewing machine.

OUTFIT | holographic green

Some of my best-wishies, best-wanties. Even though I should be on the hunt for a new rucksack, this proofs I'm being distracted by less functional but aesthetically approved want-to-haves.

White textured dress | Topshop €65
Foretell earrings | Cheap Monday €13
Mint leather paper bag | Jil Sander
Holographic purse | Monki €8
Blockheeled sandals | Cheap Monday €75

ANTI-TREND | different grunge

ph / originals from Style.com

I have to share my bitterness about magazines and blogs using the lyrics of Nirvana in every single editorial or trendreport on grunge. How I disgust reading the first line of 'Come as you are' or the well-known 'Smells like teenspirit', even as semi-, semi-, semi-journalist that isn't in the position to criticize other's writing. So, Dries van Noten nailed it with another brilliant comeback of Kurt Cobain's gathered mess. He is the spirit behind the comeback of the white sunglasses. So far nothing new.

It is just that grunge is so much more than the combination of checked flannel shirts, flowery dresses and characteristic white glasses. It was the ultimate fuck you-fashion, the unappreciated little brother of anti-fashion. And it is the nonchalance of gathering any piece of clothing you would find in your near surrounding. Getting dressed, without dressing up. It was a state of bewildering and of ultimate loneliness.

The checked shirts nonchalantly knotted around the hips could be the most noticable grunge-statement. These Céline Fall 2013 dresses enlarge this typically knotting but form the contradictory feeling of loneliness: warmth and embracement. Even though I understand the hyping of Dries' use of translucent flowerprints and the 'grunge 2.0' as some Dutch magazine delivered the cheesy message, it would be so much more interesting if uncommon, far-fetched links were made. Not Dries is the teller of grunge tales, but the classy Célne. Let's stop with literal connections and copies from copies from subcultures, and focus on indifference. Please find yourself different lyrics on grunge.

FASHION WEEK | personal highlights

Cushnie Et Ochs | 3.1 Phillip Lim | Hwan Sung for Central Saint Martins 

A strong one-piece, emphasized by the diagonal cropped sleeves from the hand of Cushnie et Ochs. The sisters set their focus on material instead of shape and that resulted in a clean line of firm, rubberized and dense fabrics. 3.1 Phillip Lim explored the world of punk through a mix-up of leathers and the classic pinstripe suit. That far connotation with Kurt's Nirvana increased when seeing the glasses. They are nor white nor oval, but clearly inspired by the raw 'fuck you-mentality' mixed with a hint of joy and experimentation. Last in row is the graduation project of Hwan Sung, presented by the prestigious Central Saint Martins. He turns his models in modern angels by putting a ballet tutu on top of the all-white outfits. Interesting vision on layering.

All Hernandez Cornet

Yes to the perception of bare skin, yes to the crumpled green plastics, yes to the hints of raw denim. Hernandez Cornet's show was in many ways innovative. It was not about that vertical stripe that replaced a row of buttons, or the 'new suit' that was presented. For me, it was the moment of clarity that fashion is not always about putting it all in one design, just as that old saying 'less is more' is still relevant today.

Lacoste | Proenza Schouler

Lacoste surprised me in very many ways. It shook off their classic polo's, cheesy crocodile and dusty image. Sports re-innovated, taking risk. Highlights were the complete mint-green suit, including gloves in the same colour, and the semi-transparent layer on top of the digital printed dress. On the other end of the pastels, in between loads of black and white, there was the show of Proenza Schouler. Slightly inspired by the path of Balenciaga, these two outfits stood out. The wonderful use of lavender ostrich leather in combination with the turtlenecks and diagonal lines, Schouler made it picture perfect again.

BLOGROLL | spare time virtuosity

Camilleovertherainbow | Camille, Paris
Oh yes. She is definitely a 'blogger-blogger'. She owns a pair of the classic Nike Free Runs, was one of the first to rock the baggy leather pants and has ongoing legs that are on everybody's wishlist. The half-French, half-British Camille also has 'it', the unknown chromosome that adds a little bit of extra nowness to every outfit. She is my latest find in the blogosphere, and certainly a source of inspiration.

LizaChloe | Liza Chloe, Paris/Amsterdam
With her easy sense of style and typical Dutch sense of functionality, Liza Chloe is living the dream in Paris. Her always surprising face-expressions mismatch her sober outfits in a fun way. And what's not to love when dark lips, high buns and Margiela's garments are spread over the pages? Liza's blog is worth a stop-by for anyone who needs dynamism and energy in greyscale.

The Haute Pursuit | Vanessa Hong, Beijing/HongKong/New York
Since my new hair length is completely based on some pictures of The Haute Pursuit I showed my hairdresser, Vanessa couldn't be left out in this top five. I adore her effortless basics, the simple and natural posing and did I already mention her hair? I dare to say that The Haute Pursuit has an even amount of the 'Cool Kid'-factor as A. Wang. Bang!

WeHaveNoStyle | Iris and Daniel, San Diego, California
Iris and her 'spouse in style' Daniel have the refreshening perspective and in-deep analyses that everybody should take a sip off now and then. Their blog is radical different from the well-known lay-outs and combines old with new, eclecticism and optical illusions with innovative techniques. It contains all the miracles of Photoshop you never thought you would ever be using...

WeThePeople | Jessie Bush, Sydney
I prefer the honest and personal take that Jessie has been taking lately. I want more of her cropped hair, mesmerizing travels to Paris and Asia, more of her short trousers and heels mix. She has the talent to capture the most unusual mixtures of people, clothing and accessories. Always under the burning Aussie sun.

MY PICKS | resort collections pre-fall 2013

ph / style.com, collage by me

Imagine me behind a sowing machine. Had a good laugh?This will be my (nearby) future, so I'd better absorb some inspiration from the latest Resort collections for Pre-Fall 2013. God, 2013 is almost here, and it keeps getting better! My picks are obviously on the greyscale, even though the collections contain loads of the darkest burgundies and blacks, hitting the gothic side of the colour spectrum.

I went for the other end, full of camels (the colour, not the animal), faded whites, washed out pinks and a good old jersey knit. I could write poems on the lovebaby of camel and grey. The masculine and oversized shapes are here to stay (did they ever leave?), but adjusted with lower, feminine necklines. Interesting to wear when negotiating about higher wages without losing yourself on the tacky side (leopard and push-up bra's, rawrr). I kept pasting pictures in the collage, but it looked like some kind of Paint-art. So I left the best ones out... See Philip Lim, Calvin Klein and Diesel Black Gold for yourself here.

From left to right: Narcisco Rodriguez, Bottega Veneta, Alexander Wang, Reed Krakoff, Proenza Schouler

DESIGNER | ricardo dourado

Something captivating, bright orange with hints of shimmering silver. Something contrasting, a mixture of massive inks and unadorned tunics. Something so rugby, Asian and punk all-in-one. That something is Ricardo Dourado.

His tumblr shows gifs from his latest 2013's show, self-portraits in the back of a posh looking car, grunge-influences in bright colours and random poetry about deconstruction. Does it provide a clear view on the man himself? No, but it helps understanding his fascination with odd movements and inconvenient combinations.

The Spring show is based on the orange used for prisoner's coveralls, as well is the inspiration for the giant tattoos. Angry eagles spread their wings on the chests of tough looking males, walking up and down the catwalk in black New Balance sneakers. I imagine an accompanying hardcore beat, full of anger and rage. Shirts are rather oversized and the three-quarter length pants also don't come in size S. Best part are the leather coverups, clearly inspired on bullet proof vests. Top it off with a sceptum and a wall of barbed wire, and you just got a step closer to the Dourado's thinking process.

STREETSTYLE | Pump up the volume

Ph / Diego Zuko Harper's Bazaar

Giovanna Battaglia and Elisa Nalin both went for shape and volume during Paris Fashion Week. The stiff materials form bulky shapes and boxy tops, which we saw in the spacious Balenciaga show last Fashion Week as well. I love how Giovanna spices up her simple grey dress with a colourful scarf and matching mirrorglasses. Elisa took it all away: multicoloured and multistriped. So, you have some good examples now. Throw your bodycon dresses away, bulky is the new sexy!

TREND REPORT | Fashion Week Favourites I

White Lights
Alexander Wang completely smashed it with his see-through collection full of floating jackets, dresses and even trousers! I predict that the minimalist gladiator heels will be sold out in no time. Just another pair of brilliant shoes... Other white favourites include the designs of Neil Barrett, who keeps it neat and simple again. This pair of Palazzo trousers in the mix with a stiff oversized jacket is daring, but he can pull it off. Then we have Diesel Black Gold, who gave their show a golden edge. Best outfit was the coated jeans in combination with a plain blouse and fringe heels.

Blue jeans, white shirt
All sorts of blue came across the catwalks, from darker hues to babyblue, from navy to faded electric blue. Haider Ackermann nailed it with this suit that looks like it is inspired by the Japanese art of folding. The sleek cut is perfect, and the materials are nicely contrasting. Matthew Williams chose for a more colourful way of combining, with loads of embroidery, faded blues and greens and an overall nature look. Haizhen Wang was in my opinion the best of Fashion Fringe, the London equivalent of Project Runway. Graphic prints and patterns, geometrical compositions and tough models. He's a newby ánd a Wang, so my expectations are high...

Original photographs belong to Style.com

DESIGNER | Martina Tiefenthaler

ph / Martina Tiefenthaler, Indie Magazine no. 29

When flipping through an old edition of Indie Magazine, I noticed a whole bunch of post-graduated fashion students. New talent and vision can be really refreshing, especially when it's innovative, futuristic and eclectic. Meet Martina Tiefenthaler and her 022010M01 collection, a golden oldie from 2010. The powerful silhouettes, material experiments and splashes of neon create an interesting paradox.

Inspiration for this almost entire white collection is a true mix of influences: from Grace Jones to African tribes, from sportswear to geological strata. "My collection is all about fabrics, cuts and the absence of parts and unneeded details", as Tiefentaler stated in Dazed&Confused. With her abstract view on clothing, she won the INDIE Magazine Award 2010 and an 8-paged editorial, of which you can enjoy in the upper left corner. Visit her website for the other visuals from the shoot.

STYLE FILE | Jess Blanch

ph / Various tumblrs, Shopbop

I have always had a strong apathy against ruffles, peplums, skirts and dresses. That feminine, giggling feeling they reminded me of was not an option. I spent days strolling through several men’s departments, always going for the XXL and the dropped crotch. A few years and several sizes later, I still feel connected to the suited women, the lady with an oversized pair of black glasses, the one who leaves her gender simply in the middle. Jess Blanch is one of them. She joined the fashion-army as editor in chief of the Australian RUSSH Magazine and doesn’t abjure her uniform. Remember that jawdropping Isabel Marant waistcoat? Spotted once and for all over the shoulders of Blanch. Trendspotter I tell you.

How would you describe your personal style?

"Classic, I suppose. I think a white silk blouse can be everything, but every so often I wear something ridiculous. I don’t really have the patience for accessorizing. And I only have one rule: not to wear black on Sundays, but don’t ask me why."

How did this dream started? 
"My story is that same cliché you read so often. I grew up in a small country town and was the youngest in my family. It was a fairly isolated upbringing in terms of pop culture. I spent a lot of time riding my horse. I didn’t watch a lot of TV as we only had two channels, so I immersed myself in books and my parents’ records. I’d listened to a whole lot of Sinatra by the time I got to Nirvana. My mum loves fashion and totally indulged me with magazines and I just fell for that fantasy world within the pages. I was back at my parents’ home over the weekend, and I still have some Harper’s Bazaars from the mid-nineties in the drawers by my bed. The one where Lindbergh shot Kate Moss wearing the denim overalls. I’ve been looking at them for years without really noticing. It was like stumbling on gold."

What inspires you?
"F. Scott Fitzgerald said, “The world exists in your eyes only. You can make it as big or as small as you want.” I like this – it reminds me that it’s up to me. Literature, art, music. My Dad has always said, “When the going gets tough, the tough get going.” The fact that Billy Ocean made it his song is just a bonus. Most of all I think it’s a great conversation. It’s amazing how good you feel afterwards. That’s when I find my mind is most open and when I have my best ideas. I can be a little vague, always living inside my own head, not always listening while others are speaking to me; so maybe it’s even more special when I’m actually there in the moment with someone."

Text: Bloginity - click here to read the entire interview with Jess Blanch

Also in the serie STYLE FILE:
Yasmin Sewell 
Taylor Tomasi Hill 
Lucy Williams 
Barbara Mortelo

LOOK-ALIKE | ASOS vs. Balmain

ph / ASOS Collection, Balmain F/W 2012

No offense - I do appreciate hours and hours of craftsmanship, leather from almost extinct cows -imported from Nepal- and ateliers full of authentic Parisian seamstress. The point is: there is no money for any piece of clothing that reaches over two-hundred euros. While splurging digital money on the best pieces from the ASOS Collection (it's like Monopoly), I came across this wild sweater. No, it hasn't those details or little gems on it, but it has the same vibe as Balmain sets for this fall/winter, and it is on sale! Royal, without money.

LOOK OF THE DAY | Mija is smiling

ph / 1TO9 SMILING

Stunning, jaw-dropping, brilliant. Please welcome the beautiful Mija from 1TO9 SMILING, a newbie in the Creators of Desire-club. Her look is effortless, without getting tacky or shabby where the Olsen-twins have patent on. I have been crazy for simple tees lately, and Mija's fits perfectly. A complete look with just the elementary basics, I like. I might have added a red lip, but soit.

AW12 | 5 Trends for this Fall

ph / We The People, Citizen Couture, Stockholm Streetstyle - edited by me

Some trends are meant to be, some are just hilarious. This is what I saw across a certain amount of streetstyle blogs - and liked. The mirrored sunnies (1) form an admiring contrast with the all-black suit, while the camouflage-print (2) mixes great with reptiles and chunky gold. I already own a pair of cat eyed sunglasses (3), fan since Alexander Wangs tip-toes some years ago. I even remember those as my first knock-offs! Classic combination: black and white (4). Right now seen a lot as dark on top, white beneath. You could make a sandwich and top it off with a pair of boots or a simple sandal. Sporty is sexy, especially with the Olympic Games still going strong. Keep it in mind for this fall, when (leather) baseball caps (5) are top of the bill. The dip-dye jeans (5) is actually from a few seasons ago (Dries van Noten), but mixes great with navy blue, a big favourite for autumn/winter 2012.

BUDGET TIP | Mono & Me Cross bracelets

Ph / AfterDRK

I am sorry, this tip is only available in certain Dutch stores.

Een tijdje geleden begon mijn unhealthy obsession met de gekleurde cross bracelets van Mono & Me. Sabrina, het brein achter AfterDRK, werd al in maart met een rood exemplaar gespot, waarna de hunt op look-alikes kon beginnen. Hoewel Mono & Me de keuze heeft uit maar liefst 55 kleuren -van diep donkerrood tot neon groen- is de prijs van acht euro per stuk wat aan de hoge kant. Het is tenslotte slechts een stukje touw, laten we de modewereld eens flink relativeren. Gisteren stapte ik voor het eerst in tijden weer eens de Action binnen, budgetwinkel van formaat. In het sieradengedeelte, net naast de shampoos en plastic horloges, spotte ik een collectie vrolijke cross bracelets! Je scoort er vijf voor net geen euro. Ik koos voor rood, wit, blauw, oranje en zwart -niet toevallig de kleuren van de Nederlandse vlag, vast een achterblijvertje van het geflopte EK.

NEW FACE | Elin Tveitan

ph / Elin Tveitan, via Vanillascented

This is the first time typing on my computer in four days. There will be limited updates in another three weeks, since I move a part of me to France. I will try to pre-post some messages, but with a tight scheduled timetable, I might not succeed. Don't kill the messenger!

However, I couldn't kept designer Elin Tveitan unnoticed, so here is a small selection of her white sprayed studs from the latest Esmod's Graduation Show. I am fascinated by the easy DIY possibilities that are hidden in these photographs. And how cool are the metallic details?

OUTFIT | With the Isabel Marant waistcoat

Collage / Private

Who wasn't impressed by the embellished waistcoat from Isabel Marant? You? Liar. The best combination I have seen so far is to mix it with a ripped pair of BF-jeans, a good old shirt, a modest armparty and flats. Because the boyish attitude of the waistcoast is one to cherish.

Embellished Waistcoat | Isabel Marant
White T-shirt | Alexander Wang
Jeans | 7 for all mankind
Sunglasses | Karen Walker
Red bracelet | Mono and me
Silver bracelet | Buddha to Buddha
Black flats | Zara, now on sale

RESORT | Givenchy + Proenza Schouler

ph / Givenchy, Proenza Schouler

Two awardwinning pieces of the latest resort collections by the hand of Riccardo Tisci and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. I am deeply impressed by the volume, fine golden details in the odd biker jacket and streetstyle-ambiance of Givenchy's shots. The ordinary white tee will always appeal to me, especially when combined with sleek leather pants and thin strapped heels. Been looking for a similar (but affordable) pair for ages, tips anyone?

I tried ignoring the growing pile of homework at my right, but it will grab me within a minute. Ah well, I guess it indeed is nice to learn more about how to make money....

TALENT | Natalia Grzybowski

Natalia Grzybow is a new name on the fashion radar. A fresh face in the Australian fashion industry. That is right, her last name might be confusing but Natalia is a Sydney (not Krakow)-based fashion designer. Her graduation project, titled 'Hybrid' is amongst my favourites. It is the diversity in textiles, the layers, the shapes. It is the feminine sculptures against the rough, hard material. Al tough it is not the clash of sexes that was her source of inspiration...

"I like modernity and minimalism and I was 100% sure I wanted to make my own textiles, even though I had never done it before. I was watching a lot of Japanese movies back then and looking through beautiful books with old scientific illustrations of animals and plants. And it just hit me. I read a lot about our current perception of a cyborg and the impact technology has had on the representation of the female body – and I really wanted to play with these current perceptions, because I found them to be false and in many cases degrading to women. So it was important for me to create a collection that was beautiful and appealing to women, whilst simultaneously representing the positive aspects of technology and the cyborg woman.”

Quote comes from Pitchzine.com, photographs are from 'Hybrid' itself, found here.