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Haider Ackermann | Draped and shaped
Haider did his trick and we saw it was good. Organic and pure shapes in practically the same materials; the softest leather and shiny silk draped over the models. Ackermann has an eye for coats, and the simple grey one above was my favourite. Also spotted on several runways; covered mouths. Is it a reference to the cruel dictators in the news lately or just an aesthetic issue?

Acne | Fifty-fifty
I wrote earlier about how Acne's show quite disappointed me with its spring/summer ensemble, the fall/winter-show did only fifty-fifty. The first looks were not my taste (let's talk odd silhouettes, orange and red together and psychedelic cowboys), but the second half fulfilled my longing for beauty. The combination of pastels and neon is absolutely okay, and together with the raw leather and denim Acne saves its butt just before hitting the water...

Gareth Pugh | About monsters and the carwash
The shy Pugh did not want to give any comment on his empowering show, but the clothes do a lot of talking themselves. The runwayshow could be easily told as a fairytale. May I present you the enemies: carwash-bird, black unicorn and the magical witch. Dark, impressive, haunting and a bit 'high priestess of a techno death cult'. That is also the best résumé about Pugh: I really couldn't have said it better.

3.1 Phillip Lim | Clean and crispy
Lim does it more ladylike, with clean silhouettes of tough materials and a sophisticated look. The bright orange breaks it all and goes on a fluffy tour. Even tough the underlying thought as a kind of fairytale here (superheroes in daily life), it wasn't that obvious shown. Nice little detail for every day life: fold the welt of your blazer to the inside for a completely fresh look.

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